I am learning all the time. The tombstone will be my diploma. ~Eartha Kitt

Lets Cook with Viola Brown

I had taken my dauthers 10 year old son Nico to see "Julie and Julia" last summer and she recently rented the movie. Nico told his mom that Lala would love that cook book, and I am now the proud owner.

Nico loved the movie, which surprised me. We had spent the summer going to all the movies he wanted to see and I told him finally after about ten kids movies it was my turn to choose. So reluctantly, very reluctantly he went with me to see Julie and Julia. He laughed out loud several times at Meryl Streep's authentic portrayal of Julia Child. She totally caputed the comedy of Julia. He liked the movie, but was disinclined to start a blog himself. I suggested he write about 365 days of Pizza. Not just your ordinary pepperoni, the only kind he will eat, but Egg Benedict pizza grilled, or Chicken Alfredo Pizza (yummy white sauce), or dessert pizza with an Oreo cookie crust. All the idea made him want to do was order Domino's...

I decided yesterday (Christmas Day 2009) when I opened this gift, that I too would cook my way through Julia's book. As I began reading it this morning I realized there was something missing from today's cook and even perhaps from Julia's. Now I am not criticizing her book or her value and example. She brought French and Gourmet cooking to us, both of which appeal to my culinary sense and taste buds. But now with Pacific Rim, Fusion and the Food Channel we are all into food presentation as well as taste, and freshness. All good but shouldn't we be able to enjoy, in moderation and on occasion, some of the good old country cooking I grew up on. You know chicken and dumplings, where the chicken is browned in bacon grease. I know, I know, hearts are palpitating at the thought of heart attack on a plate supers, but my grandmother lived to be 96 years old and never owned a range where there wasn't a can of bacon grease decorating it's stove top.
Viola Brown or Grammy to me was a dirt poor chicken farmers wife. She had five children to feed as well and nothing...I mean NOTHING was ever wasted. She had recipes and used them but she knew her recipes so well that she didn't have to use them to fix a meal. And just because something called for carrots didn't mean she couldn't add broccoli too if she was so inclined or had it left over from Sunday super.
She was so known for her cooking that my mother often joked that my father married my mother for her mothers chicken and dumplings. The truth is Grammy drove him nuts, but he did love those chicken and dumplings.

As a child and a young woman I was exposed to the never waste a thing cooking mentality of the lower income families of the 1950's. It is not to say that julia or anyone who ate prime rib or porterhouse steaks for Sunday super would waste food. I am sure they didn't either, most had lived through the depression and knew better. But, as I continue to read Julia's book I realize just how poor my grandparents were. Aspic salads would be something the man my grandfather worked for family would serve. Grammy did not have luncheons, or even attend one unless it was a church social but, she knew how to feed her family and then eventually their families.
Calories were never lacking and every meal included home made bread or biscuits and butter. And bones were cooked down until every single spot of meat had escaped.
Julie talked in her blog about how long it took Julia to fix meals. This Christmas I did what every good cook that is not a baker should do at least once. I made cookies and candy. My grandmother was both a cook and a baker and if baking weren't so tedious I might be more inclined to whip up some sugary delights or high carb breads more often. As I was making pinwheel cookies and chopping (finely chopping) 3 cups of pecans I realized I could put them in one of my handy machines and do them in a heart beat. My tireless brain reflected on the fact that Grammy not only chopped her nuts by hand, she had to shell them, discard the shells and most likely picked them off the tree.

Even the landscape had a food value no Feng shui clipped decorative trees could be found in the front of their farm house. She had walnut, pecan, pomegranate, apple and apricot tree's, a full vegetable garden and even grape and berry vines.
So yesterday when my daughter was saying how GREAT her Christmas Eve dinner came out, I realized something. She has become a fantastic cook but, today's young woman knows nothing of two generations back, where recipes were just the beginning of a good dish. Where imagination, ingenuity and left overs were the heart of the meal.

Julia Child opened doors to my mothers generation about French and Gourmet cooking, but how will my daughter and her children ever know about grammy's cooking if I don't share what I learned. And learn I did, although it took sometime for this girl who was known to burn water.
So I decided to add a twist to my exploration of Julia's book. Not a "Betty Crocker", or a Julia Childs French cooking" blog, but more like a "Viola on the Prairie", recipe blog that will have some things in common with Julia's recipes.

This blog will tell you Grammy's answer to each of Julia's recipes - a poor man's style of food serving from the farms around the 1950's Food I grew up eating. At least as I would interpret them based on the experience I gained from the best cook I ever knew, Viola Brown. Lets see how far I get!

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

My family considers gravy a beverage.....-Erma Bombeck

So I found this quote and it made me laugh - because yes gravy is very important to my family. I also know that many (even some in my family) feel like they are walking on ice when it comes to gravy making.

Just recently, my daughter asks my help with a dish I have made. Here's how the email traffic went go; "Mom, how do you make your Mexican Shrimp cocktail? And don't tell me you don't know!"

Which translated means figure out what and how much you put in it. I don't measure and the truth is my recipes change each time. Cooking for me is by instinct and taste of course.

So how do I make great gravy everytime. Well, like with anything I cook I know what goes in it and I adjust according to consistancy and taste. The big question is how to make gravy that isn't lumpy.

I also brown my flour before I use it as I believe it helps get rid of the starchy taste and heightens gravy color. You can use a jar to mix the flour with some of the liquids. Shake the heck out of it and there will be no lumps!!!

Good Gravy
Drippings+Butter+Liquids+Seasonings+Flour= YUM

THICKENERS
FLOUR is a good thickener for gravies, gumbos, and stews, it gives them a smooth, velvety texture. It's best to mix it with fat first, either by making a roux or beurre manié, or by flouring and frying meat and making the gravy from the pan drippings.

ROUX is a thickener that's made from equal parts of flour and a fat, like butter or meat drippings. It's especially good for thickening rich gravies. To make it, heat the fat in a pan, then gradually whisk in the flour. Cook the mixture, stirring constantly, for at least several minutes, then gradually whisk in the hot liquid you're trying to thicken. You must then cook the sauce for at least 30 minutes to prevent it from acquiring a grainy texture and a starchy, floury taste.


BEURRE MAINé This flour-butter mixture is used to correct overly thin sauces at the last minute. To make it, blend equal weights of butter and flour, then knead them together. After you whisk it into a sauce, let it cook for no more than a minute or two to avoid starchy taste.


CORNSTARCH is mixed with an equal amount of cold water, then added to warm liquids to thicken them. They're a good choice if you want a low-fat, neutral-tasting thickener. They give dishes a glossy sheen and this is how I learned to make sauces with in Hawaii and stir fry dishes.


Finally remember that a gravy is only as good as the tastebuds of the cook making it....keep a taste cup right next to the stove! I recommend gravy on hashbrowns, something my friend laura taught me...

BISCUITS AND GRAVY

BISCUITS
• 2 cups all purpose flour
• 4 teaspoons baking powder
• ¼ teaspoon baking soda
• pinch of salt
• 3 oz. cold butter, diced
• 8 oz buttermil

Combine sifted dry ingredients. Gently knead in the butter. Add the buttermilk and knead on a floured board just enough to bring the dough together.

If you knee too much or too rough the gluten in the flour will develop and make the biscuits tough. Practice, practice, practice.

Form a flat mass with the dough and cut out biscuits with the rim of a glass. Don't make them too thick, you don't want the outside too done or the inside undone.

Place them on parchment paper on a cookie sheet and then into a preheated 400-degree oven.

Start the gravy immediately. It should be done close to the same time as the biscuits, which is when they are golden in color.

GRAVY

• ½ pound ground breakfast sausage OR, yes you've got it bacon, bacon, bacon or combination of both.
• 2 tablespoons butter
• 4 tablespoons all purpose flour
• 3 cups cold milk
• Salt and pepper to taste

Sauté the sausage (and/or bacon) until it is cooked and has released as much of its fat as possible. Remove the sausage with a slotted spoon and do NOT drain the grease. You'll need it to make the roux. Don't have your heart attack until you have eaten this!!!

You should have about 2 tablespoons of rendered fat. Add the butter and melt it. Then add the flour a little at a time over medium heat, constantly whisking. Cook for about 2-3 minutes. Now start adding the cold milk a little at a time, whisking incessantly. Toward the end of the milk add the sausage and/or bacon back in. When you reach the desired consistency add salt and pepper to taste. Again you can mix a bit of your flour with a bit of the milk into your jar and shake the heck out of it...no lumps!!!

Cut the biscuits in half, pour the gravy over them both...Erma is right though, if you have made a good gravy you could almost drink it alone!!!

LEFT OVER GRAVY.....make a soup with it......use your imagination...lets see what goes good with gravy....potatoes...a gravy based potatoe soup!! YUM!!!

NOTE: I very seldom make a roast in the oven (although if you brown it first in a pan and reserve the pan with it's drippings you can make a decent gravy or glaze for your oven roasted meat. I prefer pot roast which almost makes it's own gravy melding the carrots, potatoes, onion and meat flavors together before you add thickens. NOTHING BETTER than potatoes that have been cooked with a pot roast and smashed with a fork just before you add the gravy!

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